3 YEAR WARRANTY 12000LB

1 YEAR WARRANTY 16800LB & 10000LB

6 MONTH WARRANTY 40000LB

Buyer pays  OF ALL postage costs relating to any faulty parts that need to be returned for repairs

Buyer pays  OF ALL postage costs relating to any parts or repaired parts that need to be posted out

No exceptions

Warranty concerns, you need to phone BEN 0424256939 after 5pm

Warranty covers

WARRANTY COVERS FAULTY WORKMANSHIP

WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER MISUSE BY THE OPERATOR

Warranty does not cover the winch casing

Solenoids are not covered under warranty

A problem with a cracked casing is when reeling in the cable; REPAIR COST & PARTS $80

 It is not evenly disbursed over the drum.

Caused by operator not concentrating

Do not operate winch with cable fully out, leave 5 wraps on the drum.

There is red marking where you do not go past when reeling in under load; this is all in the manual

When you purchase the winch you will be emailed a video clip of how

To wire up and the operation of the winch.

The common problem with all winches is the

Operator, why, because he knows everything, he has been

A mechanic or is a mechanic, he has worked with winches all his life

And doesn’t need to read manual or watch video

YOU MUST WATCH THE VIDEO

AND READ THE MANUAL

IF YOU CANNOT VIEW THE VIDEO VIA THE EMAIL OR ON THE WEBSITE, LET US

KNOW AND WE WILL POST OUT A DISC TO BE PLAYED ON YOUR COMPUTER.

If the winch is to be installed on a 4x4 bull bar, the motor must be on the same side as the driver,

 This is because the winch has a one way clutch that works in one direction and can be damaged if installed incorrectly

If the winch is to be installed on a tray/trailer the motor must be installed on the passenger side

If still unsure, stand behind the winch, the motor will be on your right hand side, looking ahead that where you are pulling from

When operating winch with remote, clutch lever must be on full lock on the ENGAGED position,

 DO NOT OPERATE WINCH UNLESS IN THIS POSITION

When free spooling, lever to be full lock in out position

Do not force the clutch lever into the ‘in’ and ‘out’ position

This process is engaging two gears together so in order to do this with ease

The drum may require movement backwards and forwards, this can be done using the remotes

Check all terminals are tight inside and outside of the black control box and on the winch

When winding winch in, cable must be evenly disbursed over the drum,

 Failure to do so may cause casing to crack.

The battery used to power the winch must be minimum of 650 COLD CRANKING AMPS,

 Do not use with battery that has a less CCA

Even if you have a dual battery system the 1 battery that the winch is connected to must be MIN 650CCA

NOT COMBINED TOTAL OF 2 BATTERIES

PLEASE READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTION BOOKLET THAT HAS BEEN PROVIDED WITH THE WINCH

 

 

You can view a little home video of how to wire up and operate click on below to view
     
 
 
 Warranty
         
 
[5] Q: My gearbox will not shift into gear.

A: Do not shift in and out of gear while the motor is turning the spool or gears. (This will strip the gears and damage the gearbox). This abuse is not covered under warranty. The clutch handle controls the engagement of the gears. If the clutch handle will not move (shift the gears) then gently rock the wire rope spool with your other hand. (This movement will help to align the gears and allow the sliding gear to engage or disengage the main planetary gear set).



Q: Electrical cables are getting hot.

A:
  • Your battery is low or bad, causing the winch to draw too many amps.
    Connections could be loose or dirty.
  • The ground connection is bad. (Do you have a ground connection?)
  • The electric cables could be corroded.
  • Check all cables and repair or clean as necessary.
  • Always operate the winch with the vehicle’s motor running.
    (Battery is being charged and full amp power is being delivered to the winch).
  • You are running the winch motor for a longer period than the recommended duty cycle. Only run the winch motor for a minute or two at a time. Allow the motor to “rest” between run times. This will keep the motor from overheating



Q: The motor solenoid sticks open (or closed) or flutters.

A: The solenoid has contacts inside which can wear out over time. If the solenoids flutter with the wired remote, there is a loose or broken wire either in the wired remote or control box. If the solenoids flutter with the wireless remote, the remote’s transmitter batteries could be low. There could be an obstruction between the transmitter and receiver at the winch.

You are too far away; stand within 10 feet with a clear line of site, and then slowly move away to understand the range of your remote.

If the solenoids stick (closed), the winch motor will continue to run. If the solenoids stick (open), the winch motor will not work. In both cases, replace the solenoids.


Q: The cable will not spool evenly on the drum.

A: This could be because of the angle at which the cable comes into the fairlead, and then onto the spool. Always exert some pressure (tension) on the cable as it is being retrieved onto the spool. The wire cable should spool evenly across the face of the spool. If the cable is not spooling correctly, freewheel some cable off the spool and start the process again. Cable that has been damaged should be replaced. (The pulling capacity of the wire rope has been compromised).


Q: My winch will not free spool (or power the cable out) with a load attached.

A: If you have retrieved a vehicle up an incline (or pulled your vehicle-with the winch attached to the front bumper-up an incline), the power out function of the cable may not work if there is still a “load force” on the wire cable. The winch is designed to pull vehicles. Many people use the winch as a “tie-down” after the “pulling” is done.Tigerz11 recommends that other “tie down” methods be used rather than the winch cable. If you are using your winch as a “tie down”, then you must relieve cable tension for the wire cable to be “free spooled” or powered out.

The brake action of the TIGERZ11 winch is working properly, and not allowing the winch cable to be pulled from the spool. If you were pulling a vehicle on level ground (not up an incline), then once the “pulling action” stopped, the winch cable could be powered out; because there would be NO tension on the cable….. and the brake would not be engaged.

It may be difficult to “unweight” a vehicle on an incline…but it must be done to disengage the brake and allow the cable to be powered out.

Think of a tightly stretched ratchet strap being used to “tie down” and object. The teeth of the ratchet act like the “brake” of the winch. You must “pull back” on the metal ratchet ears of the ratchet to disengage the ratchet teeth; so that the strap may be loosened. Same theory applies to a winch cable that is attached to load exerting force on the wire rope.